We’re still in love with the bold color and have no regrets about going dark in this space! However we do regret that we created a fun little DIY video when painting and totally forgot to share it right here on the blog! #brainfart
So today we’re going to give you a little blast from the past, with a quick video highlighting some painting tips & tricks.
Video: Painting Tips & Tricks
Painting Tip #1: When you close up the paint can, always use a rag and a hammer! This will prevent little bits of wet paint from flying out of the lid and splattering the ground around you. Instead place the rag on top of the can and hammer away! Seriously a lifesaver when it comes time to cleanup.
Painting Tip #2: Be sure to baggie up all of the outlet covers, switch covers, and wall plates when you paint a space. Labeling each ziploc bag is a great idea too so you can stay extra organized! It’s the worst to finish up a room and then have to search for all of the missing screws that go along with your wall plate covers.
Speaking of outlets & switches, we recently shared an in-depth tutorial on how to change out your light switches all by yourself (no electrician required!) over on the Zillow blog. Bridget shared a few rookie tips when she DIY’ed the switch in her mini mudroom in this post, but this tutorial is much more in-depth and it walks you through each and every step. Be sure to check it out if you’re looking to change any outlets or switches in your home.
[Disclaimer: We have partnered with Maytag to bring you this post. All opinions are our own and are not influenced by Maytag. Thanks for supporting the brands that support this blog!]
Last Friday, we chatted about our big plans for our laundry room space and I’m happy to report that I already have 1 item crossed off our to-do list.
We officially have a new washer and dryer courtesy of Maytag! If you read last week’s post, then you know we had some concerns with our old stackable laundry unit. They were pretty darn old and were definitely on their last leg. Every time we used it we crossed our fingers that it wouldn’t quit on us. These new appliances arrived just in time and I am in l-o-v-e, and dare I say…I’m kinda excited now when I do laundry?!
Let’s first talk about how sexy these bad boys are in our laundry closet. I never knew that I could love the aesthetic of appliances, but these new ones changed my mind. I mean c’mon…how can you not get all heart-eyed staring at these sleek & modern appliances?!
Honestly, I never really thought that we could have an upgraded laundry unit specifically because of the size of our little laundry closet. All of the stackable appliances I’ve seen have been really old school OR could often only do tiny loads at a time. This Maytag washer & dryer can be installed either side-by-side, or on top of one another. So it’s a “normal” size and not one specific for city living…which I love!
But I’m being so shallow by only chatting about the looks of this unit because this washer and dryer is so much more than that! As an adult, I’ve never had a washing machine that was “fancy.” Instead it’s always been pretty basic settings like hot, cold, normal wash, etc. The front load washer has some crazy features, that I cannot wait to take advantage of.
First let’s chat about the cleaning power. This baby has the best cleaning power in the industry because of its PowerWash system. But that’s not it. There is an optimal dose dispenser that you fill up with detergent. You can pour in detergent for up to 12 loads of laundry, and then it will automatically dispense the right amount based on that load. Say what?! That means you have to fill it up with detergent 1 out of every 12 times you do laundry. For us that would mean we only have to put in detergent every 6 weeks. I’m loving this machine already.
But wait, there’s another feature that this lazy laundry gal can’t get enough of (& this feature just might be my favorite). I don’t know about you, but I often put in laundry and then my mind gets wrapped up in 12 other tasks while my clothes are being washed and I forget about it. In fact, in our house it’s a running joke when my husband says, “Casey…did you leave clothes in the wash again?” Palm meet forehead. It happens all.the.time.
This washer has a Fresh Hold option where it tumbles loads and circulates air with a built-in fan for up to 12 hours. That means no more not-so-fresh clothing that you forget about and inevitably have to re-wash. Instead the machine will keep it going until after the wash cycle ends to keep your clothes fresh. This is going to be a lifesaver for me, and for my marriage. Ha!
Onto the dryer. If you guys read this post, then you know that washing our sheets is a part of my Sunday routine. Because there’s just nothing like starting your week off right with a clean bed. So on Sunday, you’ll often find me going back and forth to the dryer to make sure all of our sheets, blankets, and duvet are drying properly. And when it’s full, that can mean lots of pulling things out, re-arranging them to expose the wet spots, and then throwing it back in for more time. But now I won’t need to do that with this new dryer. The advanced moisture sensing technology gets large loads evenly dried.
It’s safe to say that I’m pretty obsessed with our new laundry unit. If you’re shopping for appliances, I’d definitely check these ones out. The installation was a breeze, Maytag products are all designed, engineered, and assembled in America, and we’ve had nothing but great experiences every time we do laundry!
So now that this item is crossed off my laundry closet to-do list, it looks like I have some woodworking ahead of me. I’m thinking new wood trim around the closet will be my next big project around here. Stay tuned!!
We haven’t chatted much about our fireplace here on the blog, and for good reason. We haven’t ever used it.
In fact, if you remember this post then you know that for a majority of the time we’ve lived in our condo our fireplace has been full of candles (which if I’m being honest, we rarely lit!).
I really loved the look and it was super easy to maintain. But with the chilly winter looming my husband and I decided that we needed to get our fireplace in working order so we could enjoy warm fires all season long.
So my first order of business was to get our fireplace inspected and cleaned. We called a reputable company, they came out in September, and within an hour our fireplace was ready for action! From all of the research I’ve done, it’s recommended that you always hire a professional to sweep your fireplace. It really just is not a DIY project that anyone should tackle themselves.
So our fireplace received the green light, but it wasn’t looking too pretty. I mean look at this thing. It’s dirty, sooty, and just a bit of an eyesore.
In an attempt to “hide the dirt” I decided to paint the interior of our brick fireplace black! That way it would always look cohesive and future soot wouldn’t tarnish the aesthetics of the fireplace.
I did some research and decided to go with high heat spray paint. (Fun fact: You cannot buy spray paint in the city of Chicago, so I always either shop online or pick spray paint up when I visit the suburbs!) I ordered 2 cans of this specific spray paint on Amazon (I’m a prime junkie), and patiently awaited its arrival.
Once my spray paint arrived, I was ready to get my DIY on.
Step 1: First you’ll want to get rid of any of the excess ash & dirt that has accumulated in your fireplace. For this, I used a little dirt devil and just sucked up as much as possible. You can also take a little brush and sweep some of the dirt on out of there. Also, it’s a great idea to have a drop cloth down so you don’t get the rest of your home and floor incredibly dirty.
Step 2: With all of the loose debris outta there, it’s time to give your fireplace a good deep clean. I recommend wearing rubber gloves for this step because man oh man will you get dirty! Legit soot and ash everywhere. I just sprayed down the interior and used a brush to scrub every nook and cranny of it.
Step 3: While the fireplace dries from the intense scrub down, you can tape off any areas that you don’t want to get hit with spray paint.
Step 4: Finally, it’s painting time! Follow the directions on the back of your can, but really you’ll just want to shake it up vigorously and use light coats of spray paint on the interior. I ended up doing 3 light coats and only waited a few minutes in between each (per the instructions on the can).
And that’s seriously it. It’s just like any other spray paint project! I probably got this entire project done in less than an hour from start to finish.
And guys, doesn’t it look so much better?! I love the matte black and it looks SO MUCH CLEANER! Let’s do a little before and after to jog your memory.
How come I didn’t do this sooner?!
With our fireplace looking all fresh and clean, I purchased a new fireplace grate too so we are officially prepared for those winter fires! This one was a good price and I love that it’s just very simple, sleek, and black.
It’s been a bit too warm to really give this baby a try, but I’m so excited for those temperatures to dip so we can enjoy a cozy fire and a lazy night at home.
In the meantime, I’m on the hunt for fireplace accessories that aren’t hideous (like the little pokey guy…not sure the official term. Can you tell I’m a fire newbie?). Any suggestions on where to look? I’d love to get all of the functional accessories and tuck them in the corner by the bar cart, so give me the scoop if you have a source for cute ones!
We were SO excited about the transformation of Mike and April’s bedroom and could not believe how much bigger the space felt because it was much brighter! Crazy what a difference white trim and a little paint can do.
When we first started planning this project, we walked around the room and asked Mike and April what they wished they could change and they shared how they weren’t in love with their closet doors. They said that these doors felt way too dark for the space and because the dark doors took up almost an entire wall in the room, Mike and April felt the look outdated the whole room. We agreed.
Don’t get us wrong, having almost an ENTIRE WALL of closet space sounds amazing to us, but masking that storage with dark and outdated doors was ruining the aesthetic of the room and we were excited that Mike and April felt the exact same way. We left that “meeting” and immediately started brainstorming how we could upgrade these dark doors on a budget.
Should we just buy brand new doors?
To be perfectly honest, buying brand new doors for this project was not really an option because we didn’t want to waste such a large part of our budget on doors. We were confident that there was a DIY solution that would transform the look of these originals without breaking the bank. And that’s when we stumbled upon this tutorial via DIY Design.
Oh. My. Goodness….. we were immediately sold! You know how much we LOVE board and batten around here (maybe a bit too much at times), and these doors felt very similar to that look. The wood detail was the clean, classic, and detailed look we were going for and the tutorial proved that this project was perfect for our budget.
Unfortunately on the day of the makeover, we didn’t get a chance to take progress pics. We had every intention to document the process step-by-step, but the day turned out to be much more chaotic than we anticipated so those pics never happened. But we will tell you how it all went down.
The night before the project, we removed the closet doors, labeled them so we knew exactly where to hang them again, and then primed the doors with the same paint as we used on the trim (KILZ Hide All Primer in White).
We loved the tutorial (from above) so much that we actually printed it out and made packets for the volunteers to read before/during the project. If you are looking to recreate this look, here’s a few things to keep in mind.
1″ nails for nail gun (short enough so they don’t go through the door)
Paint (White Semi-Gloss, same as we used on the trim)
Mini Roller + Sleeve
Tips and Tricks We Learned Along the Way
We primed all of the lattice before attaching it to the doors because we wanted to save time on the project day. This also helped us get the lattice primed quickly. This is not necessarily the only way to paint it, but it did work well for our situation
Hang the vertical strips at least a half-inch from every side of the door’s edges so that the wood does not interfere with the ability to open or close the door. #thatwouldbebad
Use both liquid nails (aka glue) and short nails to secure each piece of lattice to the doors
The volunteers found it best to secure 4 pieces to create a border around each panel before starting on the middle horizontal strips
IMPORTANT: one of the biggest lessons we learned (thank goodness not the hard way) was to hang the doors back up before hanging the horizontal pieces of wood in the middle of each bordered panel. We didn’t realize it at the time but the 4 doors were not perfectly lined up with one another. If we would have gone with just measurements and not considered the context of each door next to one another, we could have had horizontal pieces that did not match up from door to door. #yikes
To eliminate this potential problem, we hung the doors back up before starting to hang the horizontal strips of lattice. We took a laser level and ran it across the entire wall and made sure to hang each piece of lattice using that laser line as a reference. This super important step ensured that all of the horizontal strips of lattice were perfectly lined up with one another across the entire wall.
After Hanging the Doors & Attaching the Wood
After we had all of the strips of lattice in place, we followed the exact same finishing steps as we have done when we DIY-ed board and batten. We caulked all the seams, added painter’s putty to the nail holes, sanded and painted with two more finishing coats of Valspar’s Pure White in Semi-Gloss.
Finally it was time for one our favorite parts of this project — adding this gorgeous hardware! I mean, can you even?! The sleek, black hardware was the amazing finishing touch on this DIY project.
All together, this project cost us less than $100 in supplies and would’ve cost even less if we weren’t counting the paint we used not only on these doors, but throughout the trim in the entire room. We can’t even believe these are the same exact doors we started with. Replacing these doors instead of DIY-ing them could have cost us up to $500.
If you want to add epoxy to your garage floor like we did a few weeks ago in B’s garage, we highly encourage you to check out this list of the top tips we learned along the way before you get started. Hopefully you can learn from our mistakes!
We promise this project was not as intimidating as we originally thought it would be, but we cannot stress how important it is to follow ALL directions super precisely… which brings us to our first tip.
Read all directions and follow them carefully
We cannot emphasize how important it is to read ALL of the directions for each product before starting. From the etching, to patching the cracks, and then onto apply the actual epoxy, reading all of the directions is by far our biggest piece of advice. We found that each product had very specific instructions and following those steps PRECISELY was extremely important.
Like we mentioned in Tuesday’s post, we made sure to read other tutorials and watch as many videos as we could (we really liked this post for more details — thanks Katie!). Watching these videos and reading the tutorials online gave us a much better idea of what steps we needed to take and helped us avoid making some mistakes. <— you’re already on the right track by reading this post!
Have all the supplies on hand in advance
Shopping for ALL of your supplies in advance will save you a lot of headaches down the road. Outside of the actual product, I had to take inventory of the supplies I needed for this project (full list here). I didn’t have items like a face mask, a large squeegee, a bristle brush, etc. so making a list of what I needed for ALL steps and buying everything in one stop shopping really helped save time in the long run.
Allow enough dry time
Like I mentioned in the tutorial post, the prep work is the most important part of this process and making sure that there is more than enough dry time in between steps is essential. The floor needs to be VERY dry before patching and the patches need to be VERY dry before epoxy and then the epoxy needs to be VERY dry before moving back into the garage. Make sure you schedule more time than you think you need in between each step just to be safe!
Patch work matters
I was under the assumption that all of the patch work would be covered up by the dark grey RockSolid epoxy, especially because the patches were very light grey. Unfortunately this was not the case in all areas (eek!). I tried my best while patching, but I’m not a great patcher and maaybbeeeee I would have been a bit more conscientious of the look of these patches if I knew they wouldn’t be hidden by the epoxy. #oops
The bucket life of epoxy is not a suggestion… it’s a hard deadline!
After mixing Rust-Oleum’s RockSolid Epoxy Kit you have 90 minutes to apply the epoxy onto the floor. When the directions say 90 minutes, they mean it very literally. You definitely don’t need to rush while applying the product (90 minutes is plenty!) but keep this time in mind so you don’t get distracted while applying the product. And let’s be honest, at $100 per kit we definitely do not want you to waste this valuable stuff.
Getting epoxy off of your hands is not easy
Don’t even ask how this happened, but it did. We are a bit embarrassed to admit that we got epoxy on our hands … and clothes …and legs and even on our shoes. We quickly found out that getting this product off of your skin is HARD and gets harder when more time passes. We tried soap and water, gasoline (we do NOT recommend that!), goo-gone, and even oily make-up remover and wouldn’t really rave about any of those products! Eventually we did get it off of our skin (I think it was muscle and constant cleaning) but we did not have as much luck on our clothes/shoes. Those stains are here to stay! So wear plastic gloves, and be sure to wear clothing & shoes that you don’t care about getting dirty.
There’s no going back
Once you apply the epoxy there is literally no going back. No taking it off, no covering it up and most importantly, no going back into the garage to fix a spot you aren’t in love with. We started with the back of the garage and moved our way out of the garage until the whole floor was covered. It’s important to REALLY perfect an area’s coverage and roller design before moving on because once you move out of that area, you can’t get back to it in order to “fix” a mistake you may have overlooked. Keep this in mind and really make sure you’re happy with each area before moving on.
When Pedro shows up, act FAST!!
And speaking of not being able to walk on the garage floor after it’s covered in wet epoxy that is close to impossible to get off your skin. We were ALMOST done covering the entire floor, Casey was rolling the last section while I was taking progress photos, when Casey suddenly yells, “OMG, A DOG!!!!”. Much to our surprise, she was right…. a random dog from a few blocks down had escaped from his backyard and was heading into the garage and onto the WET FLOOR. AH!!!!!! I froze in shock and Casey immediately snapped me out of it by saying, “Grab him before he walks on the floor!” #duh I somehow managed to grab him right as he stepped on the floor, which was super awkward, since I’m afraid of dogs and I don’t really know this dog’s personality. Long story short — we saved the floor (and Pedro’s paws!) before any permanent damage was done.
Has anyone else DIY-ed their garage floor with Epoxy?
We would love to know what tips and tricks you learned along the way!
P.S. The FREE RockSolid Epoxy Kit + $500 giveaway is still open! If you’re looking to DIY your own garage, you can check it out here!! =)
Disclaimer: We partnered with Rust-Oleum to bring you this post. All opinions are our own and are not influenced by Rust-Oleum. Thanks for supporting the brands that support The DIY Playbook.
A couple of weeks ago, I checked-in about the current state of our garage and declared that I was about 55% done with my “dream garage” plans with about 45% of the work to go before I could call this space d-o-n-e.
The bad news: If I’m being completely honest, I probably will never get to 100% of those plans because I don’t see this house as our forever house, and therefore don’t want to dump a ton of money customizing a garage that isn’t mine forever.
The good news: Although ALL of my dream plans for this space probably won’t be a reality, I still want to check what I can off of this wish-list and a few weekends ago, I did just that!
With the help from my bestie (I owe ya, Casey!! …. and so does Matt), we now have a shiny, clean, and NEW epoxy floor!! <—- I can’t even believe I’m typing that out because it still doesn’t seem real. This was an item that I really, really hoped for one day in our garage but wasn’t always confident would become a reality.
We were first introduced to the idea of DIYing this epoxy coating when one of our fav bloggers, Katie from Bower Power Blog, DIY-ed her own garage with Rust-Oleum’s RockSolid Epoxy a few months back. We followed along every step of the way and couldn’t believe the transformation (you have to check out the before and after here). Katie made this project look so attainable, and we were immediately interested in recreating this look in my garage!
So that’s exactly what we did. We watched her tutorials, read as many tips as we could, and got to work planning this project. My cracking, stained, and grungy garage floor needed some DIY attention ASAP.
Through our research, we learned very quickly that so much of how well epoxy covers rides on the preparation of the floor and making sure it’s extremely CLEAN and ready for the last step — the epoxy. So I spent the entire week following these steps in order to prep the floor for this Saturday project.
Here’s what the week looked like. *note: all of my prep work was done outside of my day job so some of these steps definitely could’ve been consolidated but because I was prepping after work each day, the prep took a little longer.
Sunday: Shop for supplies
Monday: Remove everything from the floor of the garage
Tuesday: Etch the floor (etching = fancy word for deep clean with chemicals)
Wednesday: Dry Time with fans all over the garage
Thursday: More Dry Time
Friday: More Dry Time
Saturday: Project Day (about 9am – noon) + Dry Time
Sunday: Dry Time… just to be safe
Monday: Bring everything back into the garage
I learned so much for this process and will be sharing these lessons on Thursday. If you’re looking to epoxy your garage floor, I encourage you to check out Thursday’s post for more details (aka I made some mistakes so you don’t have to). Today, I’m going to focus a little more in-depth on the specific steps to clarify exactly how we made my garage floor dreams come true!
Rust-Oleum’s RockSolid Epoxy Metallic (the box says 2 boxes will cover a one car garage, we ended up needing 4 boxes for full coverage) <– EVERYTHING for the epoxy comes in the kit
We removed everything from the floor of our garage and had to leave it out of the space for the whole week. We ended up bringing some of the stuff inside and storing it ALL OVER the place and we put the bigger/dirtier stuff (like the lawn mower) in the backyard.
Once the garage floor was clear, I took our blower and blew out any leaves, grass clippings, spider webs, and general dust. I did this several times just to make sure it was as free from as much dust as possible. Then it was time for the etching.
I never knew what etching was until this process and now I understand it as a super “chemically” way to clean the top layer of concrete. I would definitely recommend wearing a face mask throughout this process because the intense chemical smell will literally take your breath away. My advice for etching? READ the directions on the bottle and follow these instructions exactly.
After I blew out and hosed down the floor several times, I thought it looked SUPER clean, probably the cleanest I have ever seen it. After the etching process, I realized it wasn’t even close to clean then! The etching process brought a whole new meaning to clean because it magically removed a lot of the stains, paint, and just generally made the whole space look A LOT better… already!
Now it was time for lots of drying. It’s important that the epoxy is applied to a VERY dry and prepped floor, so I waited a few days and added a few fans into the garage to make sure it was very dry when project day rolled around.
Fixing Cracks + More Dry Time
We have quite a few LARGE cracks throughout our one car garage so I wanted to patch these before adding the epoxy. This was a pretty easy thing to do. I bought Rust-Oleum’s EpoxyShield for $22 and followed the directions on the box to get these cracks patched.
It took me less than an hour to get all of these cracks patched and then…. more dry time!
Finally…. it was time to add the coat of epoxy! We chose to work with Rust-Oleum’s RockSolid Epoxy Kit in Gun Metal because I liked that it only needed ONE coat and I really liked the metallic grey color. Plus, I wanted a quality product that would hold up to traffic from our car, especially in the winter with salt on the tires.
My parents had their garage professional done over a decade ago and it still looks amazing! However, that project came with a pretty large price-tag so the option to DIY my own floor for under $500 seemed like a much more affordable option.
Much like the etching, my advice to anyone looking to tackle this project at your house would be to READ the directions very carefully and follow them precisely. Once the product is mixed in the bucket, you have about 90 minutes to apply it so it’s important that you have a plan before starting to mix.
It’s way easier than we thought!
And just like Katie’s tutorial suggested, we mixed the epoxy, cut in the edges of the garage with a paint brush, poured the epoxy on the floor in small sections and started rolling it out just like paint. It really is just like painting a wall but instead you’re painting the floor. We followed these exact steps moving from the very back of the garage toward the front until the entire garage was covered.
The only bad part of painting a floor instead of a wall is that once you have painted it, there’s no going back and fixing anything because you obviously can’t walk on the wet epoxy. <– this stuff was hard enough to get off our hands, I can only imagine what would happen if you walked on it!! #yikes
The process overall was A LOT less intimidating than we expected. As long as the floor is prepped properly, this project should run pretty darn smoothly. The only negatives that we experienced was using more product than we expected (maybe it’s how we applied it?) and my garage did experience a few air bubbles. We did a lot of research on why this happened and I think it may have something to do with my garage floor (gas releasing from the ground).
Now that this project is done, I can’t even believe it’s the same garage! It’s just feels so much cleaner and far less like a grungy garage. Don’t get me wrong, I still have A LOT of work ahead of me to bring this space to where I want it to be, but WOW… this was an amazing step in the right direction!! Plus, keeping this surface clean is so easy because I can hose it down and squeegee it out — I’m obsessed!
$500 Giveaway + RockSolid Kit!!
So what do you think, would you tackle this DIY project to update your garage?! If you’re thinking that this is officially on your garage wish-list, today may be your lucky day! We have teamed up with Rust-Oleum to giveaway a FREE RockSolid Kit AND a $500 gift card to gather your supplies and get to work! We promise, if we can do it…. then we KNOW that you can too!! a Rafflecopter giveaway
As many of you already know, my dad is ALWAYS willing to lend a helping hand behind-the-scenes at the DIY Playbook. Although we always vow to each other that we want to tackle our project WITHOUT his help, we always know he’s just a phone call away ready to answer our questions… or avert a DIY crisis!
And the days that we don’t need to call and ask him a question RIGHT THEN and there, you can bet that we’ve spent the weeks prior to that project asking for his advice and getting as many tips from him as we could so our DIY project would run smoothly.
The guy’s amazing and I’m so grateful to call him my dad. He’s a handy guy and can tackle just about any DIY project (although he would never admit to it), but his expertise is in paint. By trade he is a painting contractor and professional painter. Over the years he has taught us A LOT about painting and ironically, some of our most FAQ’s here on the Playbook revolve around painting. Go figure?!
Today, we enlisted his help and expertise to answer some of these most FAQ’s. So without further ado, here are rookie painting tips from a professional and my favorite DIY coach, “Big Mike”. #thanksdad
What are your best pieces of painting advice?
Invest in a quality paint brush, it makes a big difference!
When choosing a paint color, buy samples and paint these colors on your walls throughout the entire room. Observe the colors at all different times of the day/night to make sure you know what they look like before you commit.
Don’t judge the color until it’s completely dry.
Patience in the prep work and in the dry time is KEY!
It’s just paint so if you make a mistake or don’t love the color, you can ALWAYS repaint it.
What do you mean by buying a quality paint brush?
Although a quality paint brush can be a bit more expensive, it is worth the price tag! Investing in a quality brush and a quality trim brush will make the end product look a lot more professional. And because these paint brushes tend to cost a bit more, make sure you clean them properly so that you can use them over and over again. The paint brushes I’m currently using are about a year old and I paint with them just about every day! Some brands to look for when choosing these quality brushes include Purdy, Best Leibco, Corona, & Wooster.
How do you properly clean a paint brush so that you can use it over and over again?
Rinse the brush with water first until most of the excess paint is off. Then take a wire brush and use it as a comb to comb through the brush until all of the dried & built up paint within the heel is rinsed off. Continue to run the brush under water until the water running from the heel of the brush is mostly clean (clear again). Then hand spin the brush to remove any excess water. Last but certainly not least, it’s important that you store the brush in the original cover that came with the brush. Like I mentioned before if you have a quality brush and use it only frequently, this brush can last many years if you clean and store it properly. <— our mind is blown… we had no idea!
Okay… let’s chat about painting. How do you know if it’s necessary to prime before painting?
Priming before painting is only necessary when the surface you are painting is either new or has an existing coating. You definitely want to prime when the existing surface coat is varnish, semi-gloss, plastic, etc. because this will ensure that the paint will adhere to this challenging surface.
However, keep in mind that when you try to prime these surfaces you need to choose the correct primer so that both the primer and the paint adhere effectively. There’s a lot of new technology throughout the painting industry when it comes to paint and priming products, even the most challenging surfaces can be covered. You just may need to do a little research to figure out which primer is best for your situation. Bottom line: I would highly recommend priming any difficult surfaces just to be safe!
How many coats of paint should I account for?
It is very unusual for one coat coverage unless you are painting a surface the same or a very similar color. If that’s not the case, I would guess it will take at least 2 coats to cover evenly and consistently.
What are some of the most common mistakes people make when DIY painting?
The most common mistake people make when it comes to painting is in the preparation. When I say the prep work, here are the steps I’m referring to:
Prepare all surfaces accurately (sanding, priming)
Cover the floors, furniture, wood work etc. to protect these surfaces from the new paint
Patch and sand any imperfections on the wall
Although these steps are not always enjoyable, they are very important to make sure you’re happy with the end result. Many people rush through these rather boring steps (or even skip a step to save time) and in the end, they are unhappy with their product or the paint job looks unprofessional. It’s also very important to allow the first coat to dry long enough before moving forward with the second coat. [insert watching paint dry joke here]
Oh… and one more thing! After everything is uncovered, try to clean any paint drips off of the trim while the paint is still easy to remove.
Paint sheens — give us the scoop!
Flat or matte: no sheen or shine (use on ceilings and in some instances walls)
Eggshell: slight sheen exposed when viewed at an angle (like an eggshell..), washable to a point (use on walls, trim)
Semi-gloss: very shiny, very washable (use on trim and walls in very high traffic areas because it’s the easiest to clean)
Any paint color can be mixed into any paint sheen!
How do I choose the perfect paint color?
When looking at paint swatches, I would recommend bringing these swatches home so that you can see them in the light of your own home. The lights in the stores can give you a very inaccurate read of how the paint will look at your place, so take the samples to go and analyze your collection at home. Then try to narrow down your color choices to two or three colors you really love.
Once you have your top choices, go to the store and buy the samples ($2-$6 each) and bring them home to apply onto the walls. Make sure you apply these colors all over the room/house, next to the trim, next to your cabinets or any other permanent fixture, and watch the colors at all different times of the day. Sunlight, the lights in your house, and the context of the decor/furniture/trim/cabinets/carpet in your house can make a huge impact on how this color “reads” in your space. Putting the samples on the wall and watching them over several days will really help you identify that “read” and choose your favorite for that space. <– (more rookie tips on choosing the perfect paint color here)
What supplies do I need to paint?
plastic to cover furniture
two quality brushes
two quality roller handles
4 ft rolling pole
deep well pan
sandpaper or sanding sponge
6 inch patching knife
2 inch putty knife
duster rags (you can use old, ripped up t-shirts for this if they’re clean)
We hope these answered some of our most frequently asked questions… heck, we learned a lot today! Like who else knew that paint brushes could have a lifespan of YEARS or that you shouldn’t throw away the plastic covering it came in?! #MINDBLOWN
And last but not least, I can’t help but publicly thank my dad for answering these questions and ALWAYS supporting me, Casey, & the DIY Playbook. I’m so grateful for ALL that you do for us and feel so lucky to have such an amazing (and talented) DIY coach and dad. The sign that hangs in our family room at home has never been more true — “ASK DAD, HE KNOWS”.
And since TODAY IS BIG MIKE’S BIRTHDAY, what better way to say Happy Birthday than to pick his brain even more? Do you have any other painting questions?! If you guys found this post as informative as we did, maybe we could convince him to do a second edition?! #contributor 😉
And speaking of BIRTHDAYS, J. Crew Factory Outlet is having a birthday sale and everything is 50% WITH Free Shipping!! <– Make sure to use the code: HAPPYBDAY